Jaclyn Delacroix
Words: Jaclyn | Photos: Tandem Photography
There are two types of riders: those who meticulously maintain their bikes, and those who ride until something breaks, then panic-call the bike shop.
If you're reading this, you're probably trying to migrate from the second group to the first. Good call. A proper bike maintenance schedule saves you money, extends the life of your components, and prevents that terrifying moment when your chain snaps mid-climb or your brake lever goes to the bar on a steep descent.
This complete bike maintenance checklist breaks down exactly what to check daily, weekly, monthly, seasonally, and annually. Whether you ride road, gravel, or mountain bikes, this guide covers the service intervals that keep your bike running smoothly—and what happens when you skip them.
Why a Bike Maintenance Schedule Actually Matters
Most riders know they should maintain their bikes. Few actually do it systematically.
Here's what happens without a maintenance schedule:
Exponential wear – A slightly worn chain wears your cassette faster. A worn cassette wears your chainrings. What could have been a $53 chain replacement becomes a $413+ drivetrain overhaul (cassette + chainring + chain).
Safety failures – Brake pads wear down gradually. You don't notice until you grab a handful of lever on a steep descent and realize you're past the wear indicators. Not fun.
Poor performance – Sticky cables, dry pivot bearings, contaminated brake rotors, underinflated tires. Death by a thousand small inefficiencies.
Expensive emergency repairs – Skipping routine service means eventually something catastrophic breaks. Usually on a weekend. Usually when you have plans.
A systematic maintenance schedule catches problems early, keeps your bike performing well, and saves you money in the long run.
Daily/Weekly Bike Maintenance (Quick Checks for Regular Riders)
If you ride multiple times per week, these quick checks should become second nature.
Daily Pre-Ride Check (Before Every Ride)
The 30-Second Safety Check:
Takes 30 seconds. Could save your ride—or your face.
- Squeeze both brake levers – Firm engagement halfway through travel? Good. Lever to the bar? Fix it before you ride.
- Spin both wheels – No rubbing, wobbles, or unusual sounds. Wheels should spin freely and straight.
- Quick bounce test – Hold front brake, push down hard on handlebars. Any play or clunking in the headset? Needs adjustment.
- Check tire pressure by hand – Tires should feel firm, not soft. Road bikes especially lose pressure daily.
- Visual scan – Anything obviously loose, broken, or out of place? Chain on? Seat straight? Quick-release closed?
Why daily checks matter: Catching a problem in your garage is way better than discovering it on a descent. This 30-second routine has saved countless rides (and riders).
Weekly Maintenance (For Regular Riders)
If you're riding 3+ times per week, add these to your routine. Takes 10-15 minutes.
Chain Care:
- Wipe down chain with a rag after rides (especially after wet or muddy rides)
- Quick lube application if chain looks dry or sounds noisy—just a drop per roller, wipe excess
- Check for stiff links by slowly back-pedaling and watching the chain move through the derailleur. Stiff links cause poor shifting and accelerate wear.
Tire Inspection:
- Check tire pressure with gauge – Hand-check isn't precise enough for regular riding. Road: 80-100 PSI. Gravel: 40-60 PSI. MTB: 17-26 PSI (tubeless).
- Inspect tread for embedded debris – Remove glass, thorns, small rocks before they work through and cause flats.
- Look for cuts or damage that could lead to blowouts. Sidewall cuts are especially dangerous.
Drivetrain Quick Clean:
- Wipe down cassette with a rag or brush between cogs
- Check for buildup on chainrings and jockey wheels—gunk here kills shifting performance
- Quick spray with degreaser if needed (followed by re-lube after it dries)
Brake Visual:
- Check pad wear – Can you see the wear grooves? Good. Can't see them anymore? Time for replacement.
- Inspect rotors for contamination – Oil, grease, or brake fluid means cleaning needed immediately. Contaminated brakes = dangerous brakes.
Bolt Check (Touch Points):
- Stem bolts – Handlebars secure? No movement when you twist?
- Seatpost clamp – Saddle tight? No rotation or drop?
- Pedals – Threaded securely into cranks?
- Wheels – Quick releases or thru-axles properly closed and tight?
Why weekly maintenance matters: High-volume riding accelerates wear. Weekly checks catch small issues before they become ride-enders. Plus, a clean, well-lubed bike just rides better and makes you faster.
Monthly Bike Maintenance Checklist (Pre-Ride Inspection)
These are more thorough checks you should do monthly, or before any significant ride (century, race, big mountain day). Takes 15-20 minutes. Most riders can handle these at home.
Tire Pressure and Condition
- Check tire pressure with gauge – Proper pressure varies by bike type, tire width, and rider weight
- Inspect tires for cuts, embedded glass, or excessive wear – Look at tread depth and sidewall condition
- Check for cracks in the sidewalls – Especially on older tires or bikes stored in sunlight
- For tubeless setups, check sealant level by shaking the wheel—you should hear liquid sloshing
Why it matters: Proper tire pressure affects rolling resistance, traction, and puncture resistance. Worn or damaged tires can blow out mid-ride. Tubeless sealant dries out every 3-6 months.
Brake Check
- Squeeze brake levers – They should engage firmly halfway through travel, not go to the bar
- Inspect brake pads for wear – Look for wear indicators or measure remaining pad (<1mm = replace immediately)
- Check rotors for warping – Spin the wheel and watch the gap between pad and rotor. Consistent gap = good. Wobbling = needs truing.
- Look for leaks around hydraulic brake calipers and levers – Any fluid = problem
Why it matters: Brakes are your primary safety system. Don't compromise here. Ever.
Chain Inspection
- Wipe down the chain and inspect for rust, stiff links, or excessive wear
- Check for proper lubrication – Chain should be slightly wet to the touch, not dripping or bone dry
- Use a chain wear gauge – Replace at 0.5% wear (road) or 0.75% wear (MTB). Don't wait until 1.0%.
- Quick visual wear check – Pull the chain away from the front chainring at 3 o'clock. If you can see more than half a tooth, the chain is stretched and worn.
Why it matters: A worn chain accelerates cassette and chainring wear exponentially. SRAM GX chains cost $53. Cassettes cost $230-300. Chainrings cost $29-61. Do the math. Replace chains early.
Quick Safety Check
- Spin both wheels and check for wobble or spoke tension issues—wheels should spin true without rubbing
- Check that wheels are properly seated in dropouts and quick releases/thru-axles are tight
- Wiggle the headset (pull front brake, rock bike forward/back) to check for play—any movement means adjustment needed
- Bounce the bike and listen for loose bolts or rattles—everything should be solid
Why it matters: Loose components can fail catastrophically. A quick check catches problems before they become dangerous. A loose headset becomes a crashed face. Don't skip this.
Drivetrain Noise Check
- Shift through all gears while pedaling (on stand or easy spin)
- Listen for grinding, skipping, or unusual noises – Silence is golden. Noise means problems.
- Note any difficulty shifting or chain drops – Should be crisp and immediate
Why it matters: Shifting problems usually get worse, not better. Catch them early before you're stuck in the wrong gear on a climb.
Suspension Check (MTB only)
- Check fork and shock air pressure – Should match your sag settings (typically 25-30%)
- Cycle suspension through full travel and listen for unusual noises
- Inspect stanchions for scratches or damage – Even small scratches can damage seals
- Wipe down stanchions and check seals for leaks—oil weeping from seals = service time
Why it matters: Low air pressure or damaged seals affect performance and can cause internal damage that's expensive to repair.
Seasonal Bike Maintenance (Every 3-4 Months)
These are more involved tasks that require some tools and mechanical knowledge. If you're not comfortable doing these yourself, this is where professional bike service comes in.
Spring Service (Post-Winter)
After months of storage or riding in wet/cold conditions, your bike needs serious attention.
Tasks:
- Deep clean entire bike – Frame, drivetrain, brakes, suspension. Everything. Use bike-specific cleaners, not household degreasers.
- Cable and housing inspection – Look for fraying, rust, or sticky operation. Replace if shifting feels mushy or brakes don't engage smoothly.
- Full brake service – Clean rotors with isopropyl alcohol, inspect pads (replace if <1mm), bleed hydraulics if lever feel is soft.
- Wheel inspection – Check spoke tension (squeeze pairs—should feel even), true wheels if wobbling, inspect rims for cracks or wear.
- Pivot bearing check (full suspension MTB) – Grab the crank arms and try to wiggle side-to-side. Any play = bearings need service or replacement.
- Tubeless sealant refresh – Drain old sealant, clean inside tire, add fresh sealant (60-120ml depending on tire size).
- Torque check all critical bolts – Stem, seatpost, brake calipers, rotor bolts, crank bolts. Use a torque wrench and manufacturer specs.
Why spring service matters: Winter riding (or storage) can cause hidden damage. Moisture gets into cables and bearings. Salt corrodes components. Spring service catches issues before you're deep into riding season.
Recommended: Book a professional spring overhaul if your bike sat all winter or you're not comfortable with these tasks. Our mechanics do this every day.
Mid-Season Service (Summer)
This is the "you've been riding hard and things are wearing" service.
Tasks:
- Chain replacement if wear gauge shows >0.5% stretch (road) or >0.75% (MTB). Don't wait until 1.0%—it's already damaging your cassette.
- Brake pad replacement if near wear indicators (less than 1mm remaining)
- Drivetrain deep clean and inspection – Pull cassette if needed for thorough cleaning
- Cable/housing replacement if shifting feels sluggish or brakes need excessive lever pull
- Check and adjust derailleur hangers – Even minor bends affect shifting. Use alignment tool or bring to shop.
- Suspension lower leg service (MTB) – Replace seals and add fresh oil. Every 50 hours of riding minimum.
Why mid-season service matters: High-volume riding accelerates wear. Catching it mid-season prevents end-of-season catastrophic failures and keeps your bike performing at its best.
Fall Service (Pre-Winter Prep)
Get your bike ready for storage or wet-weather riding.
Tasks:
- Full drivetrain cleaning and fresh lubrication – Use heavier wet lube for winter riding or storage
- Protect frame with frame protector or wax – Prevents corrosion during winter storage
- Inspect and replace worn cables before winter corrosion sets in – Cables are cheap, being stranded with broken cables isn't
- Check tire condition – Replace if near end of life. Don't want to deal with this in March when everyone else needs tires too.
- Suspension service if you're a year-round rider – Winter riding is harsh on seals
- Consider indoor storage to prevent moisture damage and temperature swings
Why fall service matters: Proper prep prevents winter deterioration. Spring you will thank fall you when your bike is ready to ride instead of needing extensive work.
Recommended: Winter service + storage packages combine fall overhaul with secure indoor storage. Drop off December 15, pick up March ready to ride.
Annual Bike Maintenance (The Deep Service)
Once a year, your bike needs the full tear-down service. This is not a DIY job unless you're a very experienced home mechanic with proper tools, torque wrenches, and parts access.
What's Included in an Annual Overhaul:
Complete Drivetrain Service:
- Remove and deep clean chain, cassette, chainrings, derailleurs
- Inspect for wear and replace components as needed (worn chains, stretched cassettes, damaged chainrings)
- Lubricate derailleur pivots and jockey wheel bearings
- Adjust shifting for optimal performance across all gears
Brake System Overhaul:
- Hydraulic brake bleed (both calipers) with fresh DOT fluid or mineral oil
- Rotor cleaning or replacement if warped or worn
- Brake pad replacement
- Lever reach and bite point adjustment
- Inspect brake lines for damage or leaks
Bearing Service:
- Hub service (front and rear) – Disassemble, clean, re-grease, adjust preload properly
- Bottom bracket service – Remove, clean, re-grease or replace if notchy or worn
- Headset service – Clean, re-grease, adjust bearing preload, check for indexing or notching
- Pivot bearings (full suspension MTB) – Inspect all pivots, replace worn bearings, re-grease as needed
Wheel Service:
- Full wheel inspection for rim damage or cracks
- Spoke tension equalization across entire wheel
- Wheel truing and dishing (making sure wheel is centered in frame)
- Tubeless sealant replacement and valve service
Frame and Component Inspection:
- Check frame for cracks, especially high-stress areas (head tube, bottom bracket, dropouts, welds)
- Inspect fork and shock for damage, scratches on stanchions, or oil leaks
- Check all bolts and torque to manufacturer specifications with proper torque wrench
- Cable and housing replacement throughout bike
Suspension Service (MTB):
- Fork service – Lower leg service minimum (fresh seals, oil), full overhaul if needed (damper service)
- Shock service – Air can service, damper rebuild if needed, fresh seals
- Proper setup for rider weight and riding style
Why annual overhauls matter: This is the service that extends bike life. Catching wear early prevents expensive replacements. Fresh bearings, proper lubrication, and dialed adjustments make your bike feel new again. It's the difference between a bike that performs reliably for 10+ years and one that feels clapped out after three seasons.
Cost vs. Value: A professional annual overhaul at Essential Cycles typically costs $475-576 (depending on bike complexity). Compare that to replacing a SRAM GX cassette ($230-300), chainring ($29-61), chain ($53), and pivot bearings ($150-300+) because you let them wear too far. The math is clear—routine maintenance saves money.
Recommended: Book a complete overhaul annually, or consider our winter service packages that combine overhaul with storage. Drop off December 19, pick up March 1-20 ready to ride.
Bike Maintenance Schedule by Riding Volume
Your maintenance schedule should match your riding intensity. Here's a practical breakdown:
Casual Rider (1-2 rides/week):
- Daily: Basic pre-ride safety check (30 seconds)
- Monthly: Tire pressure, brake check, chain inspection
- Quarterly: Chain and brake pad inspection, cables
- Annually: Full overhaul with bearing service
Regular Rider (3-4 rides/week):
- Daily: Pre-ride safety check
- Weekly: Chain cleaning, tire inspection, bolt check
- Monthly: Full pre-ride inspection + drivetrain cleaning
- Every 2-3 months: Cable/brake service, chain replacement
- Every 6 months: Drivetrain deep clean, bearing check
- Annually: Full overhaul with bearing service
High-Volume Rider (5+ rides/week):
- Daily: Pre-ride check
- Weekly: Chain cleaning and detailed inspection
- Monthly: Brake service, drivetrain inspection, cable check
- Quarterly: Chain replacement, cable service, bearing check
- Every 6 months: Full overhaul
- Annually: Complete bearing replacement, suspension service
Race/Enduro Rider:
- Before every race: Full bike inspection and setup
- Weekly: Chain cleaning, drivetrain inspection
- Monthly: Chain replacement, brake service
- Quarterly: Full overhaul with bearing service
- Annually: Complete rebuild including suspension overhaul
Mountain Bike vs. Road Bike Maintenance Differences
Different bikes have different maintenance needs:
Mountain Bikes Need More Frequent:
- Suspension service (every 50-100 hours of riding, or annually minimum)
- Drivetrain cleaning (mud and dust accelerate wear significantly)
- Brake pad replacement (more aggressive braking, especially on long descents)
- Pivot bearing inspection (full suspension bikes)
- Tubeless sealant refresh (more punctures = more sealant use)
- Frame protection (rock strikes damage carbon and aluminum)
Road Bikes Need More Attention To:
- Chain wear (higher chain speeds and power transfer = faster wear)
- Tire pressure (narrow tires lose pressure faster, check before every ride)
- Brake pad wear (rim brakes wear pads quickly in wet conditions; disc brakes last longer)
- Cable housing (brake and shift feel degrades faster on drop bars)
- Bottom bracket bearing service (higher torque loads from road riding)
Gravel Bikes Split the Difference:
- More exposure to dust/dirt than road, less than MTB
- Less suspension service (if rigid), but more frame protection needs
- Tubeless setup critical for off-road reliability
- Wider tire clearance means more mud clearance issues
DIY vs. Professional Service: What You Can Do at Home
Tasks Most Riders Can Handle:
- Chain cleaning and lubrication
- Tire pressure checks and tube repairs
- Basic brake adjustments (pad alignment, lever reach)
- Bolt torque checks with proper torque wrench
- Pre-ride safety inspections
- Tubeless tire inflation (with proper setup)
Tasks That Need Some Skills and Tools:
- Cable and housing replacement
- Brake pad replacement
- Basic wheel truing
- Tubeless tire setup and sealant refresh
- Chain replacement and length sizing
- Derailleur limit screw adjustment
Tasks Best Left to Professionals:
- Hydraulic brake bleeds – Requires specific bleed kits, clean fluid, technique, and no air bubbles
- Bottom bracket service – Requires specialty tools, proper torque, and thread prep
- Hub bearing service – Cone adjustment or cartridge bearing replacement requires experience
- Suspension service – Requires clean room, specialty tools, proper oils, and expertise
- Pivot bearing replacement (full suspension) – Requires press tools and precision
Why professional service matters: Proper tools, experience, and attention to detail prevent expensive mistakes. A $75 hub service at Essential Cycles beats replacing a $300+ hub because you over-tightened the preload and crushed the bearings, or under-tightened and let them rattle loose. Our mechanics have done thousands of services. They catch problems you might miss.
Signs Your Bike Needs Service NOW
Don't wait for your scheduled service if you notice:
- Grinding or clicking noises from the drivetrain that don't go away after cleaning
- Brake lever goes to the bar before engaging—this is a safety emergency
- Shifting skips or hesitates consistently across multiple gears
- Wobbling wheels that won't true or stay true
- Play in the headset or bottom bracket when you check
- Leaking hydraulic fluid from brakes or suspension
- Creaking sounds from the frame, cranks, or pivots
- Suspension feels harsh or wallows through travel without rebound
These are red flags that something needs immediate attention. Ignoring them makes problems worse and more expensive. A creaky bottom bracket becomes a seized bottom bracket. A slightly worn chain becomes a destroyed cassette. Get it checked.
The Cost of Skipping Maintenance (Real Canadian Numbers)
Let's talk money. Here's what happens when you skip routine service, using real SRAM GX Eagle component pricing:
Scenario 1: Skipped Chain Replacement
- You ignore chain wear at 0.75% stretch
- Worn chain continues to wear cassette and chainrings
- 500km later, chain is at 1.5% stretch
Cost breakdown:
- New SRAM GX chain: $53 (what you should have spent)
- New SRAM GX cassette: $230-300 (worn by old chain)
- New SRAM GX chainring: $29-61 (also worn)
- Total cost of skipping $53 chain: $312-414 CAD
Lesson: Replace chains early. At 0.5% wear for road, 0.75% for MTB.
Scenario 2: Ignored Brake Service
- Worn brake pads damage rotors (metal-on-metal contact)
- Contaminated brake fluid causes brake fade and inconsistent performance
- Waited too long between bleeds
Cost breakdown:
- New brake pads: $25-40 per wheel (what you should have spent)
- New rotors: $60-100 per wheel (damaged by worn pads)
- Brake bleed service: $75-100 (at shop)
- Total cost of skipping $50 brake service: $220-340 CAD
Lesson: Replace pads before they're completely gone. Bleed brakes annually or when lever feel changes.
Scenario 3: Neglected Bearing Service
- Dry hub bearings wear cups and cones
- Water gets into bearings during wet rides
- Bearings seize or develop rough spots
Cost breakdown:
- Hub bearing service: $75-100 per wheel (what you should have spent)
- New hubs: $300-500+ per wheel (if bearings damaged cups)
- Wheel rebuild labor: $100-150 per wheel
- Total cost of skipping $200 bearing service: $900-1,500+ CAD
Lesson: Service bearings annually. Re-grease is cheap. New hubs are not.
Scenario 4: Skipped Suspension Service (MTB)
- Fork seals dry out and leak
- Stanchion scratches from riding with damaged seals
- Internal bushings wear unevenly
Cost breakdown:
- Lower leg service: $150-200 (what you should have spent)
- New stanchions: $400-600 (scratched beyond repair)
- Complete fork rebuild: $400-600
- Total cost of skipping $200 suspension service: $800-1,200 CAD
Lesson: Service suspension every 50-100 riding hours. Seals are cheap. New forks are not.
How to Choose a Bike Shop for Professional Service
Not all bike shops are created equal. Here's what to look for:
Experience with Your Bike Type:
- Road-focused shop? MTB-focused shop? Both?
- Do they work on your specific brand and suspension platform?
- Can they get replacement parts quickly, or will you wait weeks?
Transparent Pricing:
- Clear service package descriptions with what's included
- Parts quoted separately with approval required before work starts
- No surprise charges when you pick up
Reasonable Turnaround:
- 5-7 business days for routine service (overhaul, brake bleed)
- 1-2 days for urgent safety repairs
- Slower during spring rush March-May (book ahead!)
- Clear communication about timeline
Mechanic Expertise:
- Experience & Certified mechanics
- Suspension service capabilities (There's a reason we send our suspension to SuspensionWerx & Fluid Function, it's because they are the pros)
Communication:
- Updates during service if issues found
- Clear explanation of what was done and why
- Advice on future maintenance needs and timeline
- Honest assessment without upselling
Pro Tip: Build a relationship with one shop and one mechanic. They learn your bike, your riding style, your preferences, and catch problems early because they know what "normal" looks like for your specific bike.
Book service at Essential Cycles – We specialize in road, gravel, and mountain bikes with experienced, certified mechanics. North Vancouver location serves the North Shore, Whistler, and Sea-to-Sky corridor.
Winter Storage and Off-Season Maintenance
If you're not riding through winter, proper storage prevents spring nightmares:
Pre-Storage Prep:
- Full cleaning and thorough drying (moisture = corrosion)
- Fresh chain lubrication (heavier wet lube for storage)
- Tire pressure to normal levels (prevents flat spots on tires)
- Indoor storage location (garage, basement—avoid moisture and temperature swings)
- Shift into smallest cog and smallest chainring (reduces cable/spring tension)
Common Storage Mistakes:
- Storing dirty bike (grime attracts moisture and causes corrosion)
- Leaving tires fully deflated (damages tire beads and tubeless seal)
- Storing in damp basement or unheated shed (moisture damage)
Better Option: Professional Winter Service + Storage
Here's the problem with home storage: your bike sits all winter collecting dust, then in March you realize it needs a full service anyway. Now you're waiting in the spring service queue with everyone else who had the same realization.
Winter service + storage packages solve this:
- Drop off December 19 (before ski season takes over)
- Complete overhaul while your bike is stored (4-5 hours shop time)
- Secure indoor storage in climate-controlled shop
- Pick up March 1-20 with bike fully serviced, tuned, and ready to ride
- No spring service queue
- No winter guilt
Three packages available:
- No-Squish: $575 (road/gravel/hardtail)
- Squish: $650 (full suspension linkage overhaul)
- Deluxe Squish: $1,100 (everything + professional suspension service)
Monthly payment plans available. Limited spots—once we're full, you're stuck with spring regret.
Downloadable Bike Maintenance Checklist
Want a printable version to hang in your garage? Here's your quick-reference checklist:
Daily (Pre-Ride Check - 30 seconds): ☐ Squeeze both brake levers—firm engagement? ☐ Spin both wheels—no rubbing or wobbles? ☐ Bounce test—no headset play? ☐ Tire pressure check by hand—feel firm? ☐ Visual scan—nothing obviously wrong? ☐ MTB: Check suspension pressure and seals
Weekly (Regular Riders - 10-15 minutes): ☐ Wipe down and lube chain ☐ Check tire pressure with gauge ☐ Inspect tires for embedded debris ☐ Quick drivetrain cleaning ☐ Visual brake pad check ☐ Touch point bolt check (stem, seatpost, pedals, wheels)
Monthly (Pre-Ride Inspection - 15-20 minutes): ☐ Check tire pressure and condition thoroughly ☐ Test brakes and inspect pads for wear ☐ Inspect chain for wear with gauge (0.5% road, 0.75% MTB) ☐ Check wheel trueness and spoke tension ☐ Safety check (all bolts tight, no unusual noises) ☐ Shift through all gears and check performance ☐ MTB: Check suspension pressure and inspect seals
Quarterly (Seasonal Service - Professional or Advanced DIY): ☐ Deep clean entire bike ☐ Inspect and replace cables/housing if needed ☐ Brake service (clean rotors, inspect pads, bleed if needed) ☐ Drivetrain deep clean and inspection ☐ Wheel inspection, spoke tension, and truing ☐ Tubeless sealant refresh ☐ Torque check all critical bolts ☐ MTB: Suspension lower leg service
Annually (Full Overhaul - Professional Service Recommended): ☐ Complete drivetrain service ☐ Hydraulic brake bleed (both calipers) ☐ Hub bearing service (front and rear) ☐ Bottom bracket service ☐ Headset service ☐ Pivot bearing inspection and service (MTB) ☐ Suspension service (MTB - fork and shock) ☐ Frame inspection for damage ☐ All cables and housing replacement ☐ Wheel service (true, tension, tubeless refresh)
A Little Maintenance Goes a Long Way
Bike maintenance isn't glamorous. It doesn't give you Strava KOMs or Instagram likes. But it's the difference between a bike that performs reliably for years and one that constantly disappoints you—or worse, leaves you stranded.
The maintenance schedule in this guide isn't theoretical. It's based on real-world experience from thousands of bikes serviced at Essential Cycles, manufacturer recommendations, and what actually keeps bikes running well in the North Shore and Whistler environment (which is particularly harsh on components).
Start simple: Daily 30-second checks catch most problems before they're problems.
Build from there: Weekly maintenance for regular riders keeps everything running smoothly.
Don't skip seasonal service: This is where small problems become big problems if ignored.
Invest annually: A full overhaul extends bike life and saves money long-term. Your bike works hard for you—return the favor.
Can't keep up with the schedule? That's what professional bike service is for. We'd rather see your bike regularly for routine service than see you once with a catastrophic failure and a big bill. Prevention is always cheaper than emergency repair.
Real talk: Most riders can handle daily, weekly, and monthly tasks at home. Seasonal and annual service? Leave it to the professionals unless you're a very experienced mechanic with proper tools. The cost difference between professional service and fixing your mistakes is significant.
Book your bike service today or check out our winter service packages for the most comprehensive maintenance option. Drop off December 15, pick up March 1-20 ready to ride. No spring rush. No waiting. Just show up and shred.
Questions about bike maintenance or service intervals? Email us at info@essentialcycles.com or call the shop. We're here to help—and we'd rather answer your questions before something breaks than fix it after.